You shouldn't worry about, "Is she", "Am I", or "Are we?" Just forget about the labels and enjoy what you are sharing. If it's meant to be, it will be. If it's not, then it won't be. Just respect her boundaries and take what she says at face value. Don't assume something other than what she is telling you. Trust the process and trust her process. Keep being there for her, keep being her friend, and if it really bothers you too much, talk to her about it. If she's gone as far as you've said and she is your best friend, then having that conversation will not hurt anything - it can only help.
Is it normal? There's no such thing. Every relationship has its own dynamic. It's probably safe to say that "most" friendships don't involve regular french kissing, but then your friendship is yours alone and maybe that's the way it will continue. With regard to normality, I say again, just forget about the labels and enjoy what you are sharing.